A Week with Koto Bolofo

Lesotho born photographer, Koto Bolofo, at the opening on Fashion_The Image (26 February 2026)

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In February/March of 2026, the Roger Ballen Centre for Photography had the honour of hosting renowned photographer Koto Bolofo during the opening week of the Fashion_The Image exhibition.

Born in Lesotho in 1959, Koto Bolofo grew up in London after his family fled apartheid-era Southern Africa as political refugees. While studying graphic design at art college, he discovered photography and quickly developed a deep commitment to the medium, mastering the craft of the darkroom and laying the foundations for what would become an influential career in fashion photography.

His first major photography commission came in British Vogue in 1983, followed by a pivotal collaboration with Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto in 1985. Bolofo went on to become a regular contributor to Vogue Italia under editor Franca Sozzani, developing a photographic language known for its warmth, movement and expressive use of the body. The exhibition In_Retrospect: Koto Bolofo brings together key bodies of work from across this career. 

With this remarkable body of work as the launch pad, Bolofo spent the week engaging with Johannesburg audiences through a series of events that forefronted his creative philosophy. Bolofo’s presence filled the Centre with energy, generosity and curiosity. He engaged warmly with guests through exhibition walkabouts, a keynote talk and countless casual conversations with anyone eager to learn more about his work.

Opening Night

26 February 2026

The week began with the exhibition’s opening evening, where Bolofo welcomed guests with warmth and humour. Reflecting on his beginnings as a young photographer in London, he spoke vividly about the moment he realised he had a natural instinct for the craft and the decision to pursue it with complete commitment.

During his remarks, Bolofo reflected on a formative early moment in his career. He recalled how the legendary Richard Avedon arranged to meet him at his home address, unaware that he would be arriving in his Bentley outside the council house where the young photographer was living at the time. Bolofo shared the story with an instinctive humour that quickly set the tone for the week ahead. Beyond his anecdotes, Bolofo revealed something central to his outlook: a deep dedication to his art and a belief in committing fully to one’s ideas. Throughout the week he returned to this message again and again, encouraging audiences to trust their instincts, work relentlessly and stand firmly behind their own creative direction.

Walkabouts with Students

2nd, 4th and 5th of March 2026

During the first half of the week, Bolofo hosted three walkabouts for visiting high school groups. Moving through the exhibition with the students, he offered a rare opportunity for young photographers to engage directly with an artist of international stature, hearing not only about the images themselves but about the lived experiences behind them.

Bolofo with students from Eersterust Secondary School (top) and Prosperitus Secondary School (bottom)

Rather than presenting a polished version of the industry, Bolofo spoke candidly about the realities of working in fashion photography. He recounted stories from major shoots, including collaborations with figures such as Madonna, and frankly exposed the challenges of the industry, from creative negotiations to the financial realities of photographers.

Equally powerful were his reflections on navigating the industry as a photographer of colour. Bolofo explained how he had to work harder to be taken seriously, and he returned to the importance of trusting one’s own instincts. Even in situations where editors, directors and even models doubted his approach, he held firm, confident that the strength of the idea would ultimately justify itself. 

A Packed Keynote Talk

5th of March 2026

On Thursday evening, Bolofo delivered a public talk in the foyer of the Inside Out Centre for the Arts. Every chair was filled, with several rows of standing attendees and listeners spilling up the staircase. The atmosphere was deeply attentive, with the audience responding to Bolofo with laughter, surprise and visible admiration.

For more than an hour, he guided the audience through a selection of photographs from across his career, each accompanied by the story of how the image came into being. Among the highlights was his Harlem Basketball Ballet series (2000). In this project, Bolofo imagined ballet dancers leaping on a Harlem basketball court, capturing them mid-flight. The resulting images create a visionary dialogue between cultures, merging the grace of classical ballet with the explosive movement of street basketball, echoing the iconic slam dunk.

Koto Bolofo: Harlem Basketball Ballet (2000)

Another memorable section of the talk focused on his work with tennis champion Venus Williams. Bolofo reflected on how female athletes are often portrayed primarily through the lens of strength and competition, their femininity and personal spirit pushed to the background. For their first collaboration, he drew inspiration from jazz-age theatricality in the 1920s, creating a graceful setting on the court that allowed Williams’ elegance to shine through. The creative partnership proved so fruitful that Bolofo later travelled with Williams on tour, producing the celebrated photographic book Venus.

To Conclude

In_Retrospect: Koto Bolofo is on view at the Roger Ballen Centre for Photography as part of the Fashion_The Image exhibition until the end of May. A programme of talks and curator walkabouts will continue throughout the exhibition period, and those interested in arranging a personal guided tour are warmly invited to contact the Centre to make a booking.